Logo - Peugeot Fans Club

The Lion and Its History
Peugeot Cars History
    • 1882-18891935-1945
    • 1890-18951948-1959
    • 1896-19011960-1964
    • 1902-19091965-1973
    • 1910-19181974-1984
    • 1919-19281985-1994
    • 1929-19341995-2000
Peugeot Car Models
    • 1889-19091950-2000
    • 1910-1949Recent
Model & Engine Types
Interesting Stories
Peugeot Classic Cars
Peugeot in WRC
Peugeot Concept Cars
Peugeot Related Links
Peugeot Related News
Car Tips & Tricks
Car Wiring Diagrams
Vehicle Fault Finding
Glossary: Technical Terms
Contributed Columns
    • by Peugeot Pete



PEUGEOT CAR CARE - TIPS AND TRICKS

Back to Peugeot Car Care INDEX


Peugeot ZDJL Engine Check Sheet

By Peugeot Pete

PRINT THIS FOR USE LATER Use this as your tech manual Follow the instruction sheet to the letter, it's written that way for a purpose, to do everything and get you running the quickest without doubling back on something.

Now some basic terms just in case a term may be unfamiliar to you.

Direction- measured by sitting in the drivers seat, front, rear, left, right, LF is left front and RR is right rear.
Example: the fuse box is located in the LR.
Shafts are measured by OD, outside diameter, hoses are measured by ID, inside diameter.
The directions given are as the part is mounted in the car.
The throttle body mounts to the intake log manifold.
DFWI -- Don't Fiddle With It.
Crank -- consist of battery, switch and starter, all good, the engine cranks.
Start -- to cranking you add fuel, air, and ignition, all good it starts and runs.
Run -- after the cranking, the starting, we get to the running which consist of fixed fuel, fixed ign, and controlled air.

There are a few tools you need access to.

Timing light, digital VOM meter, TDC gauge (made from welding rod or heavy coat hanger) (about 18" long so it doesn't fall in) (rounded so it moves across the piston head) (I use an old pushrod from a REO gas), metric feeler gauge, remote starter, you will learn the rest as we go along.

Locate and identify these items. Mounted on the front top of the engine is the auxiliary air device. The two (2) 3/4" ID hoses coming off the auxiliary air device go to the intake hose just behind the air flow sensor, Idle adjustment and to the rear side of the throttle control, (remember sitting in the drivers seat). Air flow sensor is mounted over the air filter. The ign ECU is located under the passenger front floor mat. The inj ECU is located behind the glove box. Throttle body mounted to intake manifold. Wire #22 located between air filter and fender.

ONE PROJECT AT A TIME

SET TIMING

Crank Shaft
The long way says to remove valve cover and rotate the engine until the #1 and #4, int & exhaust valves are in a rocker position...and two pages later ...PTTTT TTTT.......
Remove valve cover and spark plugs, install a TDC gauge in #1 or #4 sparkplug hole (now isn't that easier). Go to the front pulley, on the bracket (on the engine) locate 2 notches, the right one (on drivers side) is "0" TDC and the left one (on pass side) is 10 degrees before TDC. Paint the 10 degree and pulley notch white, paint for tech, whiteout for office type.
Timing marks, before...10, 0 or TDC, located on front timing belt cover. Rotate the engine CW and CCW until the gauge starts to drop. Set the notch on the center of the roll-over (crank TDC). Check notch with timing marks, should be "0".
Remove dist cap and mark where each wire aligns on dist edge (paint or white out) ** Note to remember, when # 1 is TDC, rotor pointing at # 1 wire mark it is ready to fire, # 4 E valve is fully open; the same is true of the others **

Valves
There are 2 methods of adjusting valves, valves rocking and exh (E) valve fully open. I use the E valve fully open. Turn the engine by hand and watch the valve action and rotor lineup. Adjustments, I - 0.10mm (.004"), E - 0.25mm (.010"), The method I use for adjustment is called GO/NOGO, be sure the gauge and gap is lubricated, use a 0.11 &a 0.10 feeler, set the valve at 0.10 then check with 0.11, if 0.11 goes in easy then reset. If it is forced then the setting is correct. The feel for valve clearance is a personal thing, and you can tell if it is too tight or loose by the feel (think back to times before the wife). Cylinder # 1 is at the flywheel. The firing order is 1 3 4 2.

The E valve fully open method.
   OPEN         ADJUST
   #1E     #3 I   #4 E
   #3E     #4 I   #2 E
   #4E     #2 I   #1 E
   #2E     #1 I   #3 E

While you are there and after the valve check, you can pull a compression check using a remote starter.

Compression Test
Cold start and inj leaks will give you a false reading. Do not turn on the ignition. If you can use a remote starter button, go to the neutral/park relay (starter) pull relay, Use a jumper wire (or remote starter) from wire #46 (hole #3) to the battery to crank the car and test all cylinders (write it down). On manual cars, go directly to the starter activating term (wire #46). Put about 1/4 oz engine oil in each cylinder, crank the engine for about 3 seconds, then retest all cylinders (write it down).
The first test is called a dry test, the second is called a wet test. If you used the key to crank the engine the inj would cause you to get a false reading. All the readings on each test should be within 5 lbs of each other. All the wet readings will be higher than the dry but even with each other. Let me know the readings and I will translate for you. Remove remote starter and reinstall relay. Reinstall sparkplugs. Attach a strobe timing light to #1 or #4 sparkplug wire.

FINISH THE VACUUM's BEFORE GOING ON TO THE ELECTRIC's

AIR INDUCTION SYSTEM
In the LU-2 JETRONIC injection system, the quantity of fuel injected is essentially determined by the volume of air admitted to the cylinders and measured by the air flow sensor. The junctions between the air flow sensor and the cylinder head must therefore be absolutely air tight.
DFWI PLUG There are two (2) plugs, one in air flow sensor and one in throttle body. Drill off-center into the center of the plug (4.5 mm drill bit - to a depth of 5 mm max). Screw a sheet metal screw into plug where drilled, and remove plug. Replace plugs when all adjustments are made.

CLEAN AIR INTAKE
Clean the air filter (tap and compressed air). Clean air flow sensor and throttle body with spray cleaner and rag. Remove both DFWI plugs. Disconnect the potentiometer connector, supply voltage to term #1 and ground to term #3. Use a digital volt meter and read batt voltage (B) at term # 1and multiply by 0.166, write it down, read voltage (V) term # 2, write it down (formula --B times 0,166 equals V) loosen two (2) bolts and move potentiometer until you get "V", lock it down.
After cleaning, check system under pressure. Pinch the PCV hose and the hose between the charcoal canister and the electro valve. Close off the exhaust pipe. Fully open the throttle flap. Remove the air filter and cover. Wrap a rag around an air gun to prevent leakage and blow air into the air flow sensor. Using a brush apply soapy water to every connection in the system, don't forget vacuum hoses and sensors connected to the manifold. Repair all leaks. DO NOT USE A SILICONE BASED SEALER, the fumes will give the sensors a false reading.

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT
The fuel is controlled by the ECU. Start engine, run above idle until fan cycles twice (2), then let idle. Remove distributor vacuum hose and plug hose. Check tachometer or use a tachometer to set idle at 900 RPM. After warm-up, set engine RPM to idle at the tachometer, loosen dist mount bolt and rotate dist to align the 10 degree mark, tighten dist. Replace hose. While watching timing marks, move accel to activate switch, marks should jump 20-22 degrees (big jump, don't measure), no jump, Problem. Remove timing light after problems are fixed.

PROBLEMS

  1. Leave engine run, remove hose check vacuum (should be no) activate switch (should be vacuum) If different HOLLER.
  2. Vacuum works right, shut engine down and pull dist. Use a penetrating oil (I use WD40) and spray the complete dist inside (even under inside plate) let soak and try to move the plate attached to the vacuum motor. Keep trying until it moves (don't break something). Lube with lithium grease, reinstall and start back with the timing light.

At a later date I can talk you through setting the spark gap INSIDE the dist.

FUEL RICHNESS

Method A Use a digital VOM meter and attach to wire #22 located near right shock tower and air filter. Disconnect 60% thermo contact (on water pump, wires #60B & M60) and jumper wires, remove and plug PCV hose next to oil fill, leave tube on valve cover open. Adjust fuel richness using a 5 mm Allen wrench in the air flow sensor until you get a reading of 7.2 +/- 0.2 volts and watch tachometer to keep at idle. After adjustments remove meter and Allen wrench, reinstall PCV hose. Road test, come back and check adjustments. Readjust if necessary. Reinstall DFWI plugs.

Method B Use an HC/CO (2 gas) meter connected to the side outlet on the catalytic converter. Disconnect 60% thermo contact (on water pump, wires #60B & M60) and jumper wires, remove and plug PCV hose next to oil fill, leave tube on valve cover open, disconnect Lambda (oxygen) sensor. Adjust fuel richness using a 5 mm Allen wrench in the air flow sensor until you get a reading of 1.3 +/- 0.3% and watch tachometer to set idle at 960 RPM . After adjustments, reset idle to 900 RPM, remove meter and Allen wrench, reinstall PCV hose, reconnect 60% thermo contact. Road test, come back and check adjustments. Readjust if necessary. Reinstall DFWI plugs.

PP

Back to Peugeot Car Care INDEX or go to Top of this page

 


Copyright © 2002-2006 Peugeot Fans Club. A member of MainSpot.NET