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| PEUGEOT CAR CARE - TIPS AND TRICKSBack to Peugeot Car Care INDEX
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PRINT THIS FOR USE LATER Use these as your tech manual
Follow the instruction sheet to the letter, it's written that way for a purpose, to do everything and get you running the quickest without doubling back on something.
Now some basic terms just in case a term may be unfamiliar to you.
Direction - measured by sitting in the driver's seat, front, rear, left, right, LF is left front and RR is right rear. Example, the fuse box is located in the LR.
Shafts are measured by OD, outside diameter, hoses are measured by ID, inside diameter.
The directions given are as the part is mounted in the car.
The Air cleaner boot/bellows mounts on top of the AC and goes to the throttle body.
The throttle body mounts to the intake log manifold.
The exhaust air log manifold mounts on top of four (4) exhaust one way valves which is mounted in the top of the exhaust manifold. (80-85)
Crank -- consist of battery, switch and starter, all good, the engine cranks.
Start -- to cranking you add fuel, air, and ignition, all good it starts and runs.
Run -- after the cranking, the starting, we get to the running which consist of fixed fuel, fixed ign, and controlled air.
There are a few tools you need access to.
Timing light, digital VOM or dwell meter, TDC gauge (made from welding rod or heavy coat hanger) (about 18" long so it doesn't fall in) (rounded so it moves across the piston head) (I use an old pushrod from a REO gas), metric feeler gauge, remote starter,
You will learn the rest as we go along.
Locate and identify these items. Mounted on top of the valve cover is a water manifold containing the 18 degree switch (1 wire) and the 40 degree thermo contact (2 wires).
Mounted on the same bracket is the fast idle air valve. The two (2) 3/4" ID hoses coming off the fast idle air valve go to the back of the int log manifold and to the R side of the int boot, (remember sitting in the drivers seat). A 1" ID hose connected to the exhaust air log manifold runs through the pulsair valve (behind the alt to a T below the deceleration valve. A 1" ID hose runs from the back of the int boot through the deceleration valve through the T to the top of the air cleaner.
One project at a time
Vacuum lines - are color coded,-----> 86
green: connecting hose from common manifold between #1-2 intake outlets, through a T to delay valve (in line, red top towards manifold) and full load vacuum switch (mounted on R/shock tower).
brown: connecting hose from vacuum advance capsule (on dist) to vacuum advance electro valve (mounted on R/shock tower).
orange: connecting hose from the fuel injector cutout electro valve (mounted nearest to air cleaner) to the yellow T.
yellow: connecting hose from common manifold between #3-4 intake outlets, through a T to the vacuum advance electro valve (mounted on R/shock tower).
blue: connecting hose from the air inj shut off valve (over top alternator) to the pulsair electro valve (mounted on R/shock tower).
white: connecting pulsair electro valve to green T.
R/shock tower
There is 2 electro valves and a load switch, from front to rear they are vacuum advance, pulsair and load switch. There is only one outlet on the load switch (hard to mess that up) and three outlets on the electro valves (top, center and bottom)
vacuum advance, brown-center, yellow-top bottom-open pulsair, blue-center, white-bottom top-open
The hoses under the intake manifold are bundled with a plastic spirial. If hoses prove wrong, remove spirial, run hoses and replace spirial.
Go looking at ANYWHERE there is a vacuum chamber (manifold, hose, AC/heat door motors, cruise system, ETC) Check for vacuum leaks, hoses off or cracked, ETC.
FIRST, keep a roll of lacing wire handy to use as clamps if necessary. Always use two or more wraps before twist to make a better seal.
Vacuum lines - are color coded, LIBERTY MODEL 86--->
green: connecting hose from common manifold between #1-2 intake outlets, to delay valve (in line, red top towards manifold) and full load vacuum switch (mounted on R/shock tower).
brown: connecting hose from vacuum advance capsule (on dist) to vacuum advance electro valve (mounted on R/shock tower).
yellow: connecting hose from common manifold between #3-4 intake outlets, through a T to the vacuum advance electro valve (mounted on R/shock tower).
blue: connecting hose from the fuel inj cut out on the deceleration electro-valve to the yellow T.
R/shock tower
There is an electro valve and a load switch, from front to rear they are vacuum advance and load switch. There is only one outlet on the load switch (hard to mess that up) and three outlets on the electro valve (top, center and bottom)
vacuum advance, brown-center, yellow-top bottom-open
The hoses under the intake manifold are bundled with a plastic spirial. If hoses prove wrong, remove spirial, run hoses and replace spirial.
Go looking at ANYWHERE there is a vacuum chamber (manifold, hose, AC/heat door motors, cruise system, ETC) Check for vacuum leaks, hoses off or cracked, ETC.
FIRST, keep a roll of lacing wire handy to use as clamps if necessary. Always use two or more wraps before twist to make a better seal.
FINISH THE VACUUM's BEFORE GOING ON TO THE ELECTRIC's
SET TIMING
CRANK SHAFT
The long way says to remove valve cover and rotate the engine until the #1 and # 4, int & exhaust valves are in a rocker position...and two pages later ...PTTTT TTTT...
Remove spark plugs, install a TDC gauge (now isn't that easier). Go to the front pulley, on the back rim (next to eng) locate a notch. Paint this notch white, paint for tech, whiteout for office type. Rotate the engine CW and CCW until the gauge starts to drop. Set the notch on the center of the roll-over (crank TDC). Look on the front (timing chain) cover and locate a plate with two (2) notches, check to see if the pulley notch aligns with the right hand (0%) notch. If not loosen the nuts and align plate with notch, tighten nuts and paint nuts (to make sure they don't move). Remove gauge.
VALVES
There are 2 methods of adjusting valves, valves rocking and exh (E) valve fully open. I use the E valve fully open. Turn the eng by hand and watch the valve action and rotor lineup. Adjustments, I - 0.10 (.004"), E - 0.25 (.010"), The method I use for adjustment is called GO/NOGO, be sure the gauge and gap is lubricated, use a 0.11 & a 0.10 feeler, set the valve at 0.10 then check with 0.11, if 0.11 goes in easy then reset. If it is forced then the setting is correct. The feel for valve clearance is a personal thing, and you can tell if it is too tight or loose by the feel (think back to times before the wife). Cylinder #1 is at the flywheel. The firing order is 1 3 4 2.
The E valve fully open method.
OPEN ADJUST
#1E #3 I #4 E
#3E #4 I #2 E
#4E #2 I #1 E
#2E #1 I #3 E
While you are there and after the valve check, you can pull a compression check using a remote starter.
Compression Test
Cold start and inj leaks will give you a false reading.
Do not turn on the ignition If you can use a remote starter button, go to the neutral/park relay (starter) pull relay, Use a jumper wire (or remote starter) from wire #46 (hole # 3) to the battery to crank the car and test all cylinders (write it down). Put about 1/4 oz eng oil in each cylinder, crank the eng for about three (3) seconds, then retest all cylinders (write it down).
The first test is called a dry test, the second is called a wet test. If you used the key to crank the engine the inj would cause you to get a false reading. All the readings on each test should be within 5 lbs of each other. All the wet readings will be higher than the dry but even with each other. Let me know the readings and I will translate for you. Remove remote starter and reinstall relay. Reinstall sparkplugs. Attach a strobe timing light to #1 or #4 sparkplug wire.
CLEAN AIR SYSTEM
Clean the air cleaner and add fresh engine oil to the screen, use a spray cleaner to clean the bottom of the fuel distributor and the air flow sensor. Remove DFWI plug. Check to see if the disk is centered in the hole and moves freely. Reassemble and secure air cleaner. Clean throttle body with spray cleaner and rag. Now look at the micro switch, does it work (listen, a click), no click then try to clean with a liquid (WD40, BRAKLEAN, nut buster, ETC), still no click check your local electronic warehouses (you need the arm on the switch). You get a click, then loosen the lock nut on the switch adjustment screw, loosen screw one (1) or two (2) turns, check throttle opening at 0.004 (0.002") with pointed or narrow feeler gauge, if wrong, bend arm (it doesn't take much) on the back of throttle body, or remove throttle body, remove DFWI plug adjust screw, replace plug reinstall throttle body, then slowly tighten screw until you hear the switch, stop and snug lock nut, check if the arm moves slightly you should hear the switch. If you can see the arm move before the click then it is too tight, you should almost see the arm move before the click. The micro switch is your vacuum advance.
Idle Speed Adjustment
The fuel is controlled by the fuel metering dist located on top of the air cleaner, opening the throttle allows more air to flow, more air lifts the air flow sensor (air flap) allowing more fuel to flow. On the front side throttle body there is a micro switch, Remember the micro switch? look through the hole on the switch arm you will see a brass screw, that sets the idle. Now if the brass screw does not have a screwdriver slot in it, remove the screw (with small needle nose pliers) and cut one with a hacksaw (two [2] cuts should make it wide enough) clean it with a liquid, do not scratch and put it back, two (2) turns out should be enough to start the car. Start engine, run above idle until fan cycles twice (2), then let idle. Check tachometer or use a tachometer to set idle at (80-81,86-->) 900 +/- 50 RPM.(82-85)800 +/- 50 RPM. Also a good time to check the vacuum advance. Look at the timing marks, they should be close to the 8% mark, remove vacuum advance hose from bottom of dist and plug hose. After warm-up, set engine RPM to idle at the tachometer, loosen dist mount bolt and rotate dist to align the 8% mark, tighten dist. Re-install vacuum hose check timing. While watching timing marks, move accel to activate switch, marks should jump 17% (big jump, don't measure), no jump, Problem. Remove timing light after problems are fixed.
PROBLEMS
1. Leave engine run, remove hose check vacuum (should be no) activate switch (should be vacuum) If different HOLLER.
2. Vacuum works right, shut engine down and pull dist. Use a penetrating oil (I use WD40) and spray the complete dist inside (even under inside plate) let soak and try to move the plate attached to the vacuum motor. Keep trying until it moves (don't break something). Lube with lithium grease, re-install and start back with the timing light.
3. If your dist is centrifugal (no vacuum motor) try the WD40 any way you might get lucky, HOLLER and I will talk you through dis-assemble and clean.
At a later date I can talk you through setting the spark gap INSIDE the dist.
Use a dwell meter and attach to wire #153 located near left shock tower and battery. Disconnect 18% switch. Adjust fuel richness using a 3 mm Allen wrench through the hole next to the fuel distributor until you get a reading of 58.5% on the 90% scale and watch tachometer to keep at idle. After adjustments remove meter and Allen wrench and replace DFWI plug (or rubber substitute). Road test and come back and check adjustments. Re-adjust if necessary.
Dwell is the measured time in degrees that the points stay closed on one cylinder. The full cycle of the dist is 360 degrees with 90 degrees on a 4 cylinders, 60 on a 6 cylinders and 45 on a 8 cylinders. My meter is a combo of tachometer and dwell, where the tachometer full reading is 20 (Thousand RPM) to the right and the full dwell for 6 cylinders is 60 degrees to the left.
PP
Compiled and Authored by
PEUGEOT PETE
peugpete@aol.com
Pedigreed Junk Yard Dog
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