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| PEUGEOT CAR CARE - TIPS AND TRICKSBack to Peugeot Car Care INDEX
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PRINT THIS FOR USE LATER Use these pages as your tech manual In each section, follow the instruction sheet to the letter, it's written that way for a purpose, to do everything and get you running the quickest without doubling back on something.
Now some basic terms just in case a term may be unfamiliar to you.
Direction- measured by sitting in the drivers seat, front, rear, left, right, LF is left front and RR is right rear.
Shafts are measured by OD, outside diameter, hoses are measured by ID, inside diameter.
The directions given are as the part is mounted in the car.
Crank -- consist of battery, switch and starter, all good, the engine cranks.
Start -- to cranking you add fuel, air, and ignition, all good it starts and runs.
Run -- after the cranking, the starting, we get to the running which consist of controlled fuel, fixed ignition (compression), and fixed air.
Keep a roll of lacing wire handy to use as clamps if necessary. Always use two (2) or more wraps before twist to make a better seal, you will learn the rest as we go along.
VACUUM
Go looking at ANYWHERE there is a vacuum chamber (manifold, hose, AC/heat door motors, cruise system, ETC). Check for vacuum leaks, hoses off or cracked, ETC, FIRST.
SET TIMING
Crank Shaft
The long way says to remove valve cover and rotate the engine until the #1 and # 4, int & exhaust valves are in a rocker position...and two pages later ...PTTTT TTTT.......
Remove the preheat plugs, vacuum pump and valve cover. Rotate the engine until the # 1E valve is fully open (down) and adjust # 3I and # 4E. Rotate engine until the # 3E fully open......
Valves
There are 2 methods of adjusting valves, valves rocking and exh (E) valve fully open. I use the E valve fully open. Turn the engine by hand and watch the valve action. Adjustments, I - 0.25 (.010"), E - 0.25 (.010"), The method I use for adjustment is called GO/NOGO, be sure the gauge and gap is lubricated, use a 0.26 & a 0.25 feeler, set the valve at 0.25 then check with 0.26, if 0.26 goes in easy then reset. If it is forced then the setting is correct. The feel for valve clearance is a personal thing, and you can tell if it is too tight or loose by the feel (think back to times before the wife). Cylinder # 1 is at the flywheel. The firing order is 1 3 4 2.
The E valve fully open method.
OPEN ADJUST
#1E #3 I #4 E
#3E #4 I #2 E
#4E #2 I #1 E
#2E #1 I #3 E
While you are there and after the valve check, you can pull a compression check using a remote starter.
**PREHEAT PLUGS**
Remove the plugs, get a test lead of 10 ga wire (the same size as the plug wire) with alligator clips or eyelets. fasten one end to the plug contact, lay and hold the plug (at the threads & body) (DO NOT TOUCH THE TIP) on the ground side of the battery & touch the Pos. For a 7 second plug count or time to 7 seconds and watch the tip. It should start becoming bright red at the tip and work its way up the plug from 2/3 to 3/4 the way up. If after the time limit the plug does not get red, starts in the middle or goes only half way up, the plug is bad. Preheat plugs are like spark plugs and should be changed on a regular basis.
Compression Test
Do not turn on the ignition. If you can use a remote starter button, on automatic cars, go to the neutral/park relay (starter) pull relay, Use a jumper wire (or remote starter) from wire #46 (hole # 3) to the battery, on standard cars, go directly to the starter, wire #46 and to the battery, to crank the car, and test all cylinders (write it down). Put about 1/4 oz engine oil in each cylinder, crank the engine for about three (3) seconds, then retest all cylinders (write it down).
The first test is called a dry test, the second is called a wet test. If you used the key to crank the engine, the injectors would cause you to get a false reading. The minimum reading is 18 bars (257.4 psi). All the readings on each test should be within 5 bars (71.5 psi) of each other. All the wet readings will be higher than the dry but even with each other. Let me know the readings and I will translate for you. Remove remote starter and reinstall relay. Reinstall
valve cover and torque no more than 0.25daNm (1.81 ft.lbs.), reinstall vacuum pump and adjust belt.
Clean Air System
Clean the air cleaner, remove the filter and use an air gun to remove the dirt and dust. Check the hoses for cracks and proper mounting. Replace filter if too dirty to clean.
Idle Speed Adjustment
The fuel is controlled by the fuel metering dist located on left front side of the engine call an injector pump? Start engine, run above idle until fan cycles twice (2), then let idle. Check tach or use a tach to set idle at 830 +/- 30 RPM. High idle (cold start) (1200-1400 RPM) is obtained by a thermo control cable mounted in the left rear top corner of the cylinder head. The cable goes down to the throttle controls on top of the inj pump.
To test the adjustment, with engine running, pull the cable housing to compress the spring on the accelerated idle stop and check your tach. To check to see if the thermo control cable is working, let sit over night (diesels retain heat longer than gasoline engine) and note the accelerated idle stop, to see if it is compressed. If not, move the accelerator arm to see if it moves. If not, not a serious problem except in extreme cold weather. Just hold your foot on the accelerator until it warms up.
Now to explain why it's not a serious problem. The head is cast iron, the thermo control housing is aluminum, bi-metal corrosion. You will wipe the threads trying to remove the unit. IF you have a new one (Prt # 1647.44) on hand coat the threads with ANTI-SEAZE to cut down on the corrosion happening again. Changing cables does not change the setting on the accelerated idle stop. ***When working with this cable remove the ground cable from the battery. Accidentally touching the battery or the starter will give you a charge you are not looking for.***
Shock Treatment
When a lawnmower, car, truck, chain saw, anything with a gasoline power sits for a long time (year or two), the gasoline separates and leaves a varnish deposit throughout the system. The term shock-treatment refers to using a cleaner to break this deposit up and flush it out. In each case that I recommend the treatment, I also told them to get several fuel filters to catch this deposit.
As for diesel, the deposit is not varnish so much as ALGAE, a plant that grows in diesel and not in gasoline (because of the alcohol derivative added to gasoline for octane boost), That is why it is more critical to get your fuel from a large volume source (sells more than 5 gal's per week) and has a double filtering system.
The recommended dose for a shock treatment is twice the cleaning dose of an injector clean fuel additive and change filters after a short period of running time. "I.E.," in a 10 gal tank, use an amount of injector cleaner for 20 gal. Run 1/2 out (drive it out), change filter, refill and add a second dose, run 1/2 out, change filter, do not refill, run the rest out (almost), change filter, refill and add the normal additive amount. If the vehicle is a high mileage (a tank plus per week), the shock is not needed, just additive every 10 or so tanks to get residue. If the vehicle is a low mileage (2 tanks per year or so), use the additive every tank and shock every 4-5 years.
As a demonstration of what I am talking about, take a gal of diesel in a glass jug and sit it in the sun all day then look at it. That milky color is ALGAE that grew that day. Leave it in the sun for a week and it will plug a filter. :-)
PP
Compiled and Authored by
PEUGEOT PETE
peugpete@aol.com
Pedigreed Junk Yard Dog
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